Huge Skip Progressing

During some busy weeks I have none the less managed to work on the unbreaked 1/10 scale steel skip from Feldbahnfactory. Basic assembly was accomplished during a weekend in the cottage and priming, painting and weathering is almost done by now. I plan to add final touches once I have assembled the braked skip. That will make it easier to get both skips finished with the same look and faster, too. 

Almost finished DIN standard steel skip in 1/10 scale photographed in the spring sunshine in the garden.

I have never built a kit in such a large scale in laser cut wood. I didn't experience any problems during assembly and the instructions are top quality and easy to follow. I didn't make any alterations in the assembly sequence which I usually do. Probably not too many ways to assemble a skip, I suppose?

I assembled the kit while in the cottage with just basic modelling tools and standard white PVA glue. I was a little sceptical with the kit's prolific use of layering parts to achieve mass in e.g. frame, wheels and the skip rests. In reality, once finished, the layering is only noticable in a few places. I'm sure that with basic filler and sanding the problem could be avoided, but I wanted to build the kit in the most simple fashion. 

Frames and wheel sets united. A nice detail is that the bracket for a round wooden beam for braking is included in the kit. A detail not present in many model skips.

Almost assenbled skip put together as a test with the cottage surroundings in the background. If assembled very carefully the kit will not look bad unpainted.

I had no trouble removing most of the parts from the frets. Only on one fret (the one with the skip body parts) it seemed like the cutting could have been done better. Nothing that hampered the build, but slightly annoying in an otherwise perfectly produced kit. The few and quite small attachment points on the parts are easily sanded away. On some parts I sanded the edges a little to avoid a square look. I did that e.g. to the edges of the skip's frame and the coupling chains. This is an area where a full laser cut kit will always come out a bit inferior to a kit that mix materials to achieve more prototype shapes. 

The rivets on the skip are represented with very shallow cuts marking out the rivet. In this large scale a real raised rivet would be much better, but it's one of the features laser cutting can't produce. Adding rivets can't be too difficult in 1/10 scale and if I aimed for a more detailed look of my two 1/10 skips I would probably take that approach. On the other hand the Feldbahnfactory kit is super simple to put together. In my view it has a good level of detail for its simplicity of assembly.

End view of the painted skip on the short track panel included with the kit. I have numbered the skip with roman numerals, on this end with a white pencil, a method I have also used in 1/19 scale.

Here is one of the places where the layering of kit parts are visible. Not too obvious and I will disguise it with some lost gravel and dust from the loading proces. This end of the skip has a fancy logo from a Ukrainian 750 mm narrow gauge railway in the western part of the country around Borzhava, Боршавська вузькоколійна залізниця.

The wood grain isn't particularly noticably on most parts. In this close-up you can see traces of layering on the skip body rests and some wood grain marks on the safety handle.

How the wooden parts would look once painted had me worried intially. Sometimes wood behave crazy when painted and no amount of sanding will make it look like anything but crazy wood. The wood used in this kit works well with standard rattle can spray can paint. I used a mix of my usual black primer from Games Workshop and the Beltoni texture rust paint, that I have used previously on my 1/19 scale bogie timber bolsters. The texture in the rust paint help create as slightly uneven surface on the skip, an effect I further enhanced with sprinkled on genuine rust dust from a prototype skip. Using ground up real rust is part of my 'Famous for nothing weathering method'. Further spot painting was done with an air brush and different dark greys. Initial weathering consists of an overall wash with heavily diluted rust coloured oil paint. I will be adding more weathering when I finish the braked skip. Weathering them together will help make them look like coming from the same industry.

Coupling chains during painting. Heavy work with files produced quite nice rounded chain links.

As a conclusion I feel that most of my reservations with the kit was put to shame. Where I suspected the kit to let me down (wood texture, round parts, layering etc.) it was either insignificant or easily avoidable with a little work. If you are looking for some impressively large skip models to display the Feldbahnfactory models are easily assempled and will look good on your shelf, mantlepiece or as a nerdy office display. My braked skip kit is on the Easter holiday modelling programme as it is a large kit that lends itself to outdoor modelling in the cottage. 

The Feldbahnfactory skip is great little (large) kit of the widespread steel DIN skip. It provides a resonably cheap and easy way of getting that impressive skip train on a shelf or in a museum's display case.

Danish Model Railway Union Exhibition 2025

The Danish Model Railway Union's annual model railway exhibition had again booked the large sporting centre no more than 1000 m from my doorstep. I'm not overly excited by model railway exhibitions, but when one is held this close to my home it's no big investment in time. I actually visited the exhibition last time it was held in my hometown.

An integral part of the DMJU exhibition is a diorama contest, where the audience is invited to vote for  the best diorama. This time there were 3 contestants and I didn't need much consideration before I voted for this diorama in 1/87 scale.

The DMJU is a society organising most Danish model railway societies. As their main public event the DMJU hosts an annual model railway exhibition. Some traders are invited, but the exhibition is centered around layouts and modelling rather than trading. 16 mm gauge is not a widespread scale in Denmark and as expected no layouts or models attended. Narrow gauge was pretty thin with only one layout having a decent amount of it in 1:120 scale.

Most layouts were H0 and drew pretty large crowds, but layouts like this isn't fueling my railway modelling passion. No offence meant to its builders.

The DMJU exhibition is primarily a show to give a broad overview of what's happening on the Danish railway modelling scene. Not least to younger people looking for a hobby. The exhibition is thus mostly focused on layouts, but some traders are present. I visited my usual business partners that also help me with custom made parts when I need that. No traders get rich from my model railway shopping at the exhibition, but I found a few goodies at the sales stand of Epokemodeller. One of the items was so well made I came to great doubts of my railway modelling future!

Large laser cut factory windows and drain covers for a future Eastern European diorama in H0. And a small narrow gauge locomotive in the same scale. 

Picking up the tiny Deutz OME117F loco I was astonished to notice that I could actually read the number on the builder's plate. 10835 corresponding to a Deutz loco delivered to the Netherlands.

All levers are present at the driver's position as is a fully detailed seat. I really struggle to understand how someting so finely detailed and well made can be sold for just 20 Euros. Sounds too good to be true, but it's not. Check out the loco on Artitec's homepage.

Doubting the reason continuing my modelling when such masterpieces can be picked up for 20 Euros from Dutch manufacturer Artitec, I placed the loco on my small 1/87 diorama together with some mine tubs and it looked even better. Photographed with some of the stuff I have made myself I realised that my own modelling wasn't so inferior as to be given up totally. So I will carry on doing fun industrial narrow gauge modelling. And now the Deutz is being built into the history of my yet geographically undecided Eastern European mining area as a 'trophy locomotive' brought back as reparations from Germany after World War 2.

Out of use Deutz with mine tubs in front of the concrete fence around the mining facility.

Moving closer the detail on the little locomotive shows up even clearer. The loco is a static model, but at the small price H0 modellers could easily place a few of them on an open standard gauge wagon and have an unusual load.

So despite my reservations I had a good 1½ hours at the exhibition and brought some nice things with me home for a very reasonable price. Surely not the worst activity on an otherwise quiet Sunday.

MD-54-2 in 1/87 Scale

The mailman rang the doorbell and delivered a package from Ukraine with yet another 750 mm gauge Soviet locomotive model in 1/87 scale. The company K-Model from Kyiv has a large range of H0 scale model cars and vehicles. Added to that is a small number of 750 mm narrow gauge models in the same scale. I have shopped in Kyiv before and am in the proces of  building (now and then, at least) their TU-4 loco.

Two 1/87 scale MD54-2 locos right out of the parcel from Ukraine.

MD54-2 locomotives were built by the Istinsk Machine Building Plant (200 km southeast of Moscow) between 1953-1962. The type was designed as a replacement for older small narrow gauge locos for 600 and 750 mm gauge of Soviet manufacture and a wide array of locos acquired as war booty and reparations. A riveted frame with two axles on elliptical springs carried what was basically the upper body and mechanical parts from the DT54 tracked tractor. A total of 1817 locomotives (a small number by Soviet standards). A very similar loco was the MKD-35 built primarily for the smallest industrial railways with 600 mm gauge where regauging to 750 mm wasn't economically viable. 

A lot can be said about the MD54-2 but it's not first in line for a design award!

An 750 mm MD54-2 at the Pershotravenka porcelain isolator plant, Zhytomyr Oblast, Ukraine. In the background the company's VP-4-2073. Photo: L.N. Yanchuk.

The model is delivered assembled, painted and fitted with glazing in the windows. The model is tiny, measuring only 5.3 cm in length and 2 cm in width. Each loco is accompanied by a skip model that looks somewhat proportionally challenged. I bought two locos and the two skips are going straight to my box of spareparts.

The model is 3D printed, is unmotorized and fitted with metal wheelsets. Despite being resonably well protected by bubble wrap and a sturdy cardboard box some headlights and an exhaust pipe had broken off during transit. I could retrieve the broken off parts from the wrapping and they will be kept safe until I begin working on the models.

Image from Ebay showing the MD54-2 model with the accompanying skip. At least I can source two central buffers for a future project.

The K-Models' MD54-2 on a slice of birch in a landscape setting. A tiny model that will be a nice addition to my Soviet narrow gauge collection.  

MD54-2 1027 preserved at the Pereslav railway museum in the small town Talitsy in Yaroslavl Oblast, Russia. The colours could indicate that this is the actual prototype for the K-Models model.

The MD54-2 models are now packed safely away in a small cardboard box as they are not high on my list of modelling tasks. I have 1/19 projects that are far more important and I have begun assembling the new 1/10 scale skips as well. The most important thing is that I now have two MD54-2 locos in my collection. You never know how long small manufacturers survive in a niche market. 

Lights On the Fowler

I have been keeping away from work on the lamps and lighting on the Fowler as long as possible. I have always been reluctant to take on varying electrical jobs (like fitting lights in locos and in buildings) on my model railway. Not because I don't like a layout with lights in a dimly lit layout room, but because I find it difficult work. So in pure defiance I set out to connect some wires and see if I could turn on the lights on my Fowler model.

Sometimes the fear of the task is the greatest obstacle. 15 minutes of work and I could turn on the lights!

I had been collecting some useful stuff for the lighting project and had two sizes of typical lorry headlights to choose from: 9.5 and 12.5 mm in diameter. I decided to use the 9.5 mm headlights in whitemetal that I suspect originates from Imperial Modellbau from Germany. They were packed in an unmarked plastic bag, so I'm unable to confirm it.

Two sizes of headlights and LEDs. I will be using the small 9.5 mm whitemetal headlights with separate resin glass inserts. The larger headlights are from an old diecast Ford A lorry.

The LEDs are insanely small as they are leftovers from another project. They seem to give a resonably sharp light in a good hue, so I'm intially testing them out in the lamps. Their size is close to a prototypical light bulb!

With the LEDs functioning all that remains is to figure out how to lead the wires to the lamps and still have the loco disassemble comparatively easy - and of course to fit the LEDs in the headlights. The Fowler is approaching the finish line!

Just to prove that the rear facing LED works as well!

Large Scale Skips - Really Large! (1/10)

I have developed a serious 'multiple scale dispersion syndrome' regularly drifting from 1/19 scale as my mood sees fit. I'm now trying out two kits from the new manufacturer Feldbahnfactory in the Netherlands. Also trading under the name of 'Spoorhout' the small manufacturer is just about to lanuch a production of 1:10 scale 600 mm industrial railway wagons and locomotives in laser cut wood. I couldn't resist the urge to build two classic steel skips in 1:10 scale.

The skips (one braked and one unbraked) comes in flat boxes measuring 36x23 and 41x22 cm. Curiously the braked skip (the kit with the most parts) came in the smallest box.

I have only been opening the boxes and carefully examined the parts. The instruction in A4 landscape format are expertly done and the impression of the kits is very promising. I can say that packaging is solid and the the four frets of parts are wrapped in silk paper. Obviously the maker, Arnoud Bongaards, is talented in digital design and drawing as well as presenting his kits to a very high quality.

Opening the box you are greated by silk paper wrapped frets with laser cut parts for your large scale O&K skips. I had the feeling opening a jewellery box, not a model kit! The kits will have great gift potential for industrial railway enthusiasts.

I received instructions in Dutch language as Arnoud wasn't quite finished doing the English version. Fortunately I'm pretty used to reading Dutch - and lets face it: the drawings says more than a thousands words!

Having carefully removed the silk paper wrapping I examined the parts that seem to be cut nicely and probably needing only very little work to separate from the fret. As with any wooden laser cut kit I'm looking forward to see how the prototype's round shapes are represented in kit form. A few other things I'm looking forward to experience is how the layering of parts will work out and how well the wood will take paint. 

Four frets A, B, C and D - and a small extra one taped to fret A.

Close up of fret D. For any resonably knowledgable skip fan the parts are readily identyfiable.

The well illustrated instructions seem to leave no question unanswered. Time will tell if it really works out that way.

The two skips are not meant to become the beginning of a huge undertaking in 1/10 scale. A fun diversion from my rather serious 1/19 scale modelling is good and I plan to exhibit the finished models on my work office where I have varying displays of railway and construction equipment models. Always a good starter for a talk with colleagues.

New Mini Drill

I'm not a modeller with a huge collection of tools and a workshop full of fancy machines. Basic tools, airbrush and a mini drill pretty much sums up what I use in my modelling. Recently my more than 25 year old Dremel-type mini drill from a supermarket stopped working. Time for a replacement.

Decent tool in a conservative design. Notably more silent in operation than my old drill.

To replace the cheap (probably Asian-made) broken mini drill I chose a European-made Proxxon with speed regulator. It's a type Micromot 60/E and has so far worked fine with the small range of mini drill attatchments in my possession. It may cost a bit more, but I'm not shopping mini drills every week and it's good to know that there is an endless range of accessories to the machine. If the Proxxon can keep working as long as my old mini drill (and I expect it to) It'll keep me company for the rest of my life. One thing less to worry about!

Drill and power supply is placed to the right on my work table. Usually I don't leave a drill in the tool. That's bad workshop discipline.

Fowler Painting Begun

After enjoying building parts for the cab interior, I have now set out to paint the loco. Not something many will notice afterwards as the loco obviously is already painted. Handling and working on the loco has created scratches, and the many added exterior details, although given a first treatment of paint back in August, could use a proper repaint. Now the loco is dismantled for fitting the cab details and repainting.  

Cleaned up work area with parts for the cab interior. After vacuuming the workbench, painting of the Fowler can now begin.

One of the first things I changed on the Fowler was lowering the buffer height to fit Nystrup Gravel's skips. With the buffers lowered the old mounting hole became visible. I thought the partly visible hole would be a good illustration of narrow gauge industrial locomotives' flexibility. I drilled two holes for the mounting bolts in each buffer plate and painted the area, where the buffers would have been located when mounted higher with a mix of red/brown colours to illustrate the original primer. The area was masked off with Tamiya masking tape. Then buffer plates and buffers were air brushed Vallejo Air 'Ferrari Red'. Removing the masking tape revealed the primer colour as if the buffers had been lowered without anyone taking the trouble to overpaint the area with red.

Painting in progress. Rear buffer beam screwed off for ease of drilling and painting. Coupling rods have received the first layer of red paint.

Buffers are fitted after painting, frames painted 'Black Grey' and rods and counterweights painted red. The cab floor has had its first layers of paints, the brake coloumn is fitted - and I found the hand tools I've been looking for!

Gear lever subassembly and instrument panel glued in place and cab interior having its first layer of weathering applied. The traces of the buffer's higher mounting for the loco's original customer can be seen.

My trusty German Gabbert airbrush from the late 1990's has developed some bad manners that I will have to look into before I can paint the upper body. Until then I can't fit window glazing and get the final things in the cab glued in place. While getting the airbrush in shape again, I'm placing the Fowler on the shelf. Hopefully not for long!